The weatherman stares out from the television at my brother and me.
“A low over the Tasman is generating large seas and strong westerly winds”. A warning for weekend boating enthusiasts and fishermen. We whoop and whistle, because we are neither.
The next morning, I side-step sleeveless, vinyl records scattered on the floor in front of the bookcase. My older sister had her friends over again. Oversized black binoculars sit upright on the second shelf above the record player, proud like a family heirloom.
I press the large lens against the kitchen window, just in time to see Jimmy in his red and white board shorts, paddle in front of a peaking wave. He was supposed to wake me.
I run down the hallway into my bedroom, disrobing as I go. Underneath is the swimming costume I’d worn instead of pyjamas. In the wardrobe, hanging alongside a school uniform and not much else, is my wetsuit. I shimmy into it like a moth reversing into a cocoon. My pink surfboard leans against the wall, fitted with a leg rope, wrapped three times around the tail. A beach towel on the floor, their colours clash.
Past my parent’s bedroom to the front door, the surfboard bangs against the walls and door frames, hopefully not waking the sore heads still asleep.
Jimmy’s rusty bike is still laying in the front yard and mine is not where I left it. Oh Jimmy! I swing a leg over the middle bar, cursing the boys’ bike without brakes and pedal with fury, aimed at my brother.
Forty-five years have gone, and I happily celebrate, zipping up a black wetsuit, more times than I’ve zipped into a black dress. Years of saltwater submersion under a scorching Australian sun, makes me look a lot older than I am and I don’t care.
The fury appears again, directed at my aging capabilities as I fight currents, rips, fear and pride.
I taste salt on my tongue and smell brine from the dolphin’s breath. As the breaking wave peels off into the distance, I feel the gap closing between animal and human. I want to scream, “how lucky are we”, as the unstoppable high flows through my body.
Who do I think I am?
I know, I am a surfer.